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Hand tools can only be used safely and precisely if their cutting edges are sharp. Depending on the cutting angle and material of the blade, but also on the type of wood you are working on, the cutting edges blunt more or less quickly. Therefore, you should sharpen them again and again (if possible, before the performance noticeably decreases). In addition to whetstones, we also offer various diamond sharpening stones, sharpening systems and a range of useful tools.
The subject of sharpening chisels and plane irons, but also axes and especially knives, is a perennial topic of much (and sometimes very passionate) debate. However, the working technique is much easier than these debates suggest - as long as you stick to some basic rules and are willing to invest some time in practising. And above all: have the necessary equipment. You can find them here with us.
Clean cuts with a chisel and plane can only be achieved if the cutting edge of the tool is sharp. Obviously, this does not apply to cutting edges that are damaged, i.e. have nicks, grooves or chipping: These will leave bumps and irregularities on the material. You do not get a flat, smooth surface. But even an intact cutting edge can lead to unsatisfactory results if it is blunt. In this case, fibre tears occur on the surface of the wood, the chisel strays from the intended cutting line, the plane 'plucks', etc. In addition to these quality losses, another factor makes regular sharpening of the blades necessary: Dull blades require more effort to cut. This not only makes the work more strenuous, but also increases the risk of slipping, you endanger yourself while working.
The terms "grinding" and "sharpening" are often used synonymously. This is not necessarily wrong. If one values linguistic accuracy, one should speak of "sharpening" for tools. The technique used for this is "grinding". However, one can also grind without sharpening (e.g. a wooden surface before applying a surface agent).
Sharpening is done in several steps, depending on how blunt the blade is. If the edge is completely blunt, the first step is to restore the desired cutting edge angle with a coarse grindstone. Then the edge is ground with a medium-grit whetstone. Finally, a fine grindstone is used for the fine grinding. If desired, the blade can then be honed with a very fine abrasive, i.e. polished with very little material removal. For tools that have only lost a little of their sharpness, one or more of these steps can be omitted - while working, for example, you will only occasionally refresh the edge with a fine stone.
Unlike most knives and axes, chisels and plane irons have a flat side called the mirror side. It is important that the mirror side is absolutely flat. This is achieved by dressing with a dressing stone, a grinding process similar to sharpening. When sharpening the tool, there is always a small burr on the mirror side of the cutting edge, which must be removed by honing before further sharpening can be done.
There are different abrasives and grinding systems for sharpening hand tools, all of which have their advantages and disadvantages. The important thing is to decide on a system as a beginner and then have the patience and perseverance to practise working with it until you really master it. The following abrasives and systems based on them can be distinguished:
